Ocean Sports does Thailand…Part 2

Standard
Ocean Sports does Thailand…Part 2

(Feb 13th 2013)

"Beach Time" in the stunning Similan Islands

“Beach Time” in the stunning Similan Islands

Oh my goodness people, live aboards are pretty much the best thing ever! If you live to dive, you have got to try one. We’re on day 3 of 4 on the Manta Queen II of Khao Lak Scuba Adventures as I write this. After a crowded ferry ride from Koh Phi Phi to Phuket and a long bus up the coast to Khao Lak we boarded our boat around 9pm and set sail for the Similan Islands right away. After a boat briefing, introductions to the crew and a late dinner, we turned in to our tiny little berths. Let me tell you, trying to sleep that first night was something of an adventure! I’ve never been on a boat for more than a day before and never overnight. As our berth is at the front of the boat we found ourselves rocking steadily up and down all night long, head first at that. I took some 12 hour Gravol and hoped for the best. I’m pleased to report that I’ve got the hang of it now…I have sea legs!

Our home away from home, the Manta Queen II

Our home away from home, the Manta Queen II

Our wake up call was blessedly late at 8am. If that sounds early to you, you will not like our schedule for the other 3 days! We had 1st breakfast (that’s right…1st breakfast…) and then we jumped in for our first dive. Beautiful Anita’s Reef did not disappoint, with fields of garden eels poking their heads up from the sand to sway in the current, plenty of fish, and even a 6ft blacktip reef shark making an appearance at the end! Also, the viz is awesome at 80-90ft! After the dive we had 2nd breakfast (that’s right…2nd breakfast!) and chilled out for 2 hours before the next dive. Our days go as follows: wake up, eat, dive, eat, dive, eat, dive, eat, dive, eat, drink, sleep…repeat! It’s an intense pace as our dives are all an hour long and quite deep, usually all between 60-100ft. As I mentioned here, we’re all on nitrox and it’s a darn good thing; with this many deep dives a day it’s the only way we can get the bottom time. We’re also doing extra long safety stops (I explain what that is in this post), 5 minutes instead of the usual 3. This is simply because our dives are deep and we’re doing so many a day; a little extra conservatism never hurt anybody and its just another way we can mitigate the risk of decompression illness.

just hanging out at my safety stop!

just hanging out at my safety stop!

The crew took mercy on us the first morning with the 8am wake-up call but every day since its been 6am, before the sun is even up. This morning at 6:53am, when the sun had just barely broken the watery horizon, I found myself already 42ft below the waves. Who AM I these days?!? Halfway through our sunrise dives the fish finally wake up and get going for the day. The first bit is a tad boring down there but then its awfully fun to watch the reef come alive again as the sun gets higher in the sky.

Today we did 3 dives on a site called Richelieu Rock – an isolated pinnacle quite far off shore that was famously discovered by Jacques Cousteau long ago. Its simply breathtaking. Teeming with life and activity, more colors than a rainbow, and packed full of the tiniest little creatures divers get so excited about. Peacock mantis shrimp strutting around with their bold tail feathers. Harlequin shrimp shying away from the limelight despite their vibrant polka dot markings. Ornate ghost pipe fish so strange I have to blink a few times to make sure I’m really seeing what I think I’m seeing. The ever elegant tiger tail seahorse. The list just goes on! I would have been happy to dive that one site for the whole week. Take my word for it, the Similan & Surin islands definitely live up to their reputation.

Amy's Blog 1

crazy looking batfish

crazy looking batfish

the uber bizarre moth fish - he walks across the rocks rather than swim

the uber bizarre moth fish – he walks across the rocks rather than swim

tiger tail seahorse, feeding upside down

tiger tail seahorse, feeding upside down

one of my favorites, peacock mantis shrimp. Isn't he funky?!

one of my favorites, peacock mantis shrimp. Isn’t he funky?!

Four dives a day on a boat is so much easier than from land. Our gear gets set up once and that’s it. There’s no changing tanks or reloading our weight pockets, the only work we have to do is the huffing and puffing of peeling in and out of our wetsuits and the rest is done for us. Our only task between dives is to drip dry in the sun, have some food, then lay around listening to some tunes and pouring over the fish identification books until its time to get wet again. This 4 day trip is exactly the right way to discover if live aboards are going to be something we enjoy, as its not too long in case it isn’t. No surprise here though, we love it! We’re already talking about where and when the next one will be. The rest of the group is having a great time as well, some of them even joining right in on the “so which boat do we do next?” conversations. That said, we’ll be upgrading a bit on the next one. We chose to do the Similan Islands not only because they’re a world class diving destination, but also because the trips are short and inexpensive; a perfect compliment to our week on Koh Phi Phi and a great 1st Ocean Sports trip for us.

Surfaced from our twilight dive to a beautiful sunset and rainbow combo! Gorgeous!

Surfaced from our twilight dive to a beautiful sunset and rainbow combo! Gorgeous!

There is nothing luxurious about this boat but that suits us just fine this time. You get what you pay for and we’re getting excellent value for money. There are 18 divers on board, plus 5 guides and a full Thai crew too. The boat has 2 double berths, 5 with 2 singles and 1 quad share room. There are 3 little bathrooms for everyone to share and only 1 towel each. At 4 dives a day plus a shower in the evening, those towels are really getting a workout…and that’s the least gross way I can put it! Note to self: bring own towel next time, so I can have one for fresh water and one for salt water. Also, next time I’ll bring enough bathing suits that I can change into a dry one after every dive; being wet for 13 hours a day does get uncomfortable. And a private head would be awesome too. I’m getting a real education here! All in all, I love life at sea. It’s simple, honest, relaxing and all this fresh air is good for the soul.

We will definitely be doing this live aboard thing again, but that doesn’t surprise you much does it? Got to go…its dive time!

the Ocean Sports crew! (Dave is hiding behind Angie though, oops!)

the Ocean Sports crew! (Dave is hiding behind Angie though, oops!)

Thanks to Warren for the underwater pictures! If you’d like to see more of his fantastic portfolio, check out his photo blog at www.warrenmckay.wordpress.com

Ocean Sports does Thailand…Part 1

Standard

(Feb 10th 2013)

1 week and 13 glorious dives later we’ve run out of time here on Koh Phi Phi and are preparing to make our way up to Khao Lak tomorrow to board our floating home for the remainder of the trip. We’ve had a very eventful week here with a few misadventures along the way! But before I get to those…lets talk diving!

What a great lookin' group we are!

What a great lookin’ group we are!

Here in Phi Phi with Blue View Divers we dive off of longtail boats – its basically a wooden skiff that’s been set up to hold tanks in the middle with a re-purposed car engine on the back for propulsion. It’s a wet’n wild ride; nothing stays dry! To enter the water you either roll off the back (1 person from each side at the same time so the boat stays balanced) or just toss your kit overboard and hop in after it. We’ve done 4 days of local sites – meaning around the nearby islands of Phi Phi Ley and the Bidas (Nai and Nok). The sites are gorgeous, full of anemones and soft corals, positively bursting with life and color! It wasn’t uncommon for there to be so many schools of fish they literally obscured our views of the reef…pretty awesome problem in my books! Our surface intervals were spent touring through Pi-Leh lagoon and having lunch on the beach of Maya Bay (where the 1999 movie The Beach was filmed). It’s such a beautiful spot there, and will forever hold a special place in my heart, as it is where Warren surprised me with a proposal. I was so dazed and distracted by my newly engaged status I don’t remember a single thing from the second dive that day after he popped the question!

Maya Bay - where he asked "will you marry me?" and i said "yes!"

Maya Bay – where he asked “will you marry me?” and i said “yes!”

it even goes well with my gear :P

it even goes well with my gear :P

"Blue View's Beach" in Maya Bay. Picnic lunches there for surface intervals...doesn't get any better!

“Blue View’s Beach” in Maya Bay. Picnic lunches there for surface intervals…doesn’t get any better!

The other 2 days diving were spent venturing further out to sea to dive at a place called Koh Haa – literally “5 islands” with a lagoon in the middle. It was a long boat ride out and back but it was a fun day full of donuts, diving, sun tanning (or sun burning, for most of us) and jumping off the top deck into the lagoon. The other day we did 3 dives – King Cruiser wreck (a sunken car ferry accused of insurance fraud), Shark Point and Anemone Reef. All of them were deep so we used enriched air to extend our bottom times. Room air contains 21% oxygen and 79% nitrogen so one of the ways divers can extend the amount of time they spend at depth (limited mainly by the accumulation of nitrogen in our bodies) is to increase the amount of oxygen in our tanks, thus decreasing the amount of nitrogen we’re breathing so we don’t accumulate it as quickly at depth. We used a blend of 32% O2, but nitrox certified divers can use anything from 22%-40%. For most of our group this was their first time using nitrox as they were only just certified before we all left for Thailand. We’ll be doing 4 dives a day on the live aboard and unlimited nitrox is only 2000 baht (about 60$) so we’re all planning on taking full advantage of that.

Beautiful Koh Haa

Beautiful Koh Haa

IMG_0379

We were all lucky bums this week and got to see several leopard sharks, about 7 to 12 blacktip reef sharks, schools of barracuda, tons of clownfish (Nemos!), all sorts of shrimp, hawksbill turtles, eels galore and TONS more! I was continually shocked at the variety here – with the exception of the new-to-me Indo Pacific species, I’ve seen all of these things before…but I’ve never seen ALL of them together, on every dive. It was sublime.

map puffer

map puffer

Hey look! We found Nemo!

Hey look! We found Nemo!

Cuttle fish - easily one of the coolest things I've ever seen underwater

Cuttle fish – easily one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen underwater

moray eel getting cleaned up by a shrimp!

moray eel getting cleaned up by a shrimp!

Banded sea snake - one of the most poisonous creatures on the planet, but very shy

Banded sea snake – one of the most poisonous creatures on the planet, but very shy

Anemone crab

Anemone crab

blue dragon

blue dragon

this guy needs no introduction

this guy needs no introduction

Durban dancing shrimp!

Juvenile yellow boxfish

Juvenile yellow boxfish

what we all came to see - leopard shark! As juveniles, their markings resemble zebra stripes

what we all came to see – leopard shark! As juveniles, their markings resemble zebra stripes

As for those misadventures…

On one occasion our boat’s propeller got tangled in a submerged mooring line and ripped the engine right off the boat. The captain took quite the blow to the chest and after an impromptu medical assessment (helps to have a doc and a nurse on board!) we sent him off to the hospital. Thankfully, he suffered only bruises and is taking some time off now to recover. It was scary but no one else was hurt and Blue View was so organized they had another boat called and we were off diving within no time at all. We’re also down a trip leader for the Similans live aboard. Sadly, Alexandra is sick; poor girl is so dizzy she can’t even open her eyes. She’s off to the hospital too and we wish her a speedy recovery! We’re definitely going to miss her! My personal “favorite” misadventure was the jellyfish incident. We were dropped on a shallow reef out in open ocean and all we could see in every direction was sea nettle jellyfish. We had to descend through them but I somehow managed to avoid being stung. Our dive around the reef was interrupted a few times by a wall of them so we’d simply turn around and go back the way we’d come. It was no biggie…until the end of the dive. We spotted a bunch of leopard sharks and of course hung out with them for a bit but this cost us dearly as we were then smack in the middle of thousands and thousands (if not hundreds of thousands) of those painful jellies. Thankfully I was in a full wetsuit and only got stung on my face, neck, and ears on the way up. Warren was in board shorts; poor guy’s legs got it bad. Yikes!

I also had an issue with my regulators on the very first dive in Koh Phi Phi; they started free flowing underwater as some small part in the second stage (the part that goes in my mouth) failed. It wasn’t quite as fast a free flow as what we practice for in our open water certification, but it was fast enough that I had return to the surface immediately and switch over to rental regs. Watching my gauge and seeing my tank empty of air quite quickly was uncomfortable, but I’m proud of myself for handling my first real underwater problem with calm. I didn’t panic, I recognized there was a problem and that it could not be fixed underwater, signaled the guide and, after making sure the rest of the group was under the watchful eyes of another DM, we made a safe ascent to the surface. This may seem trivial to those of you who have been diving for ages, but for little old me I was happy to know that my training and experience thus far prepared me to cope with the situation, as I’d never really been “tested” before. This is especially good news since now that I’m a dive professional I’ll have to solve other people’s problems underwater too!

Overall we’ve had a relaxing week here enjoying, and alternatively escaping, the intense heat of the sun. Our trip guests filled their evenings with Thai massages, romantic beach side dinners and plenty of spicy food. We loved diving with Blue View; Alexandra, Kris, Caroline and Narong were fantastic guides and so fun to dive with. They had great eyes for the little stuff and their enthusiasm for diving was contagious. It makes such a huge difference to dive with people who aren’t just “working” but truly loving it too! Hearing Caroline literally squeal with delight through her regulator underwater put a huge grin on my face every time as I’d turn towards her excitedly, knowing she’d found something awesome. If Koh Phi Phi is on your diving bucket list too you couldn’t do better than Blue View.

Happy diving friends and thanks for tuning in!

Koh Phi Phi

Standard
Koh Phi Phi

(February 1st 2013)

Loh Dalum Bay

Loh Dalum Bay

After 2 weeks traveling the south of Thailand and the capital city of Bangkok I’m pleased to tell you we’ve arrived on Koh Phi Phi and are busily preparing to receive our Ocean Sports group! There will be 12 of us in all, counting the trip leaders Warren and Alexandra, and we’re starting here with a week of diving in the local marine park as well as longer day trips out to the surrounding islands. We’re staying at the newly renovate Paradise Resort on Long Beach, away from the chaotic townsite and where we’ll have spectacular sunsets every night. Am I making you wish you were here with us? Good! Sign up for our next trip *wink wink*!

Our rooms…those of us not in the beach front cabanas that is!

eating with toes in the sand never gets old

Long Beach, where the hotel is

 

Gorgeous views of Phi Phi Ley

Gorgeous views of Phi Phi Ley

It’s hard to believe this tropical paradise was the site of such devastation after the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami. All I see are beautiful beaches, fusia flowers and turquoise waters. The limestone jungle-covered cliffs rising up out of the sea are a spectacular site and underwater the reefs are vibrant and full of life.
There is nothing fancy here, the shops and restaurants are very rustic – this isn’t a wealthy part of the world but the people are resourceful and do lots with the little they have. No one seems to want for much, despite having so much less than we do back home. It’s a good reminder to be thankful for all that I have, for the opportunity to come here and experience a new culture, and especially to appreciate the important things. So what if the toilet paper is crappy and the power cuts in and out? I get to be here experiencing it!
As always friends, stay tuned!

Turtle Island (Koh Tao)

Standard

This small island in the Gulf of Thailand was a 6 hr bus ride and a 2 hr ferry from Bangkok and supposedly the best diving the Gulf has to offer, attracting thousands of visitors who come to learn to scuba dive. Naturally, we wanted to check it out! We did 5 days of diving there, 10 dives in all. Sadly we were more than a little disappointed.  Our visibility was quite limited at 40-30 ft and there wasn’t very much to see . I suspect it’s due to the sheer volume of divers (and mostly inexperienced ones at that) in the water at every site at all times, but there wasn’t much variety and very little coral formations either, mostly just small patches growing on huge underwater boulders. We also discover quickly that we were that exception rather than the rule – experienced divers arriving with our own gear looking to do lots of dives… We got funny looks and some blank stares more than a few times. The dive shops there weren’t well set up for divers like us either, everything from gear storage to bottom times required some improvising. For example, our hotel (which was partnered with the shop we dove with) included breakfast but that was served beginning at 7:30am and the boat left at 7am… 7- Eleven croissants became our best friend. We did manage to see a few cool things though, no diving is ever a total loss! We especially loved the giant clams embedded into the coral heads and the seas of swaying anemones and their resident pink anemone fish darting in and out to investigate us. We also saw tons of nudibranchs.

Huge clams!

Huge clams!

lets play...name that nudi!

lets play…name that nudi!

beautiful anemone

the carnivorous crown of thorns starfish

the carnivorous crown of thorns starfish

blue spotted stingray